How to set out a floor

Basically you will need to find the centre of the room. If it is an odd shape, work with the biggest oblong part as it will be most visual. Start by measuring the length of the room from both sides, halve each measurement (generally they will vary slightly) and mark it on the floor at both ends. Join the two marks up using a chalk line and then do the same for the width of room. To check that the lines are square to each other, measure from the centrepoint that they cross as follows: 300mm along one line and make a mark, 400mm along the other and make a mark, then measure between the two marks. It should measure 500mm if it does not then adjust your centre lines until it does.

Lay a tile squarely into one quarter of where the two lines cross and work out what size cuts you have to the four walls. If you end up with a small cut put the centre of the tile on the centre point of the floor this should allow you a bigger cut. You will need to try various options to achieve the best result. Setting out the floor is very important so take your time and always check your measurements.

How to cut a stone tile

Ideal tool check list

• Angle grinder with a stone cutting blade
• Wet cutter
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Spirit level
• Work bench
• Extension lead
• Towel to wipe stone with after cutting
• Set square
• Profile gauge
• Water for wet cutter

Measure the distance from the last whole tile to the wall at both ends, remembering to deduct the width of the grout joint. Place the stone you want to cut onto a work bench and transfer the measurements to the stone using a tape measure and pencil. Join the marks up with a level or straight edge. This can then be cut, ideally with a water-fed tile cutter which can be hired from most good hire shops. You could also use an angle grinder with a stone-cutting blade but this method requires a degree of experience and extreme caution. Always wear PPE (Personal Protection Equipment) as advised by hire shop or tool manufacturer when working with power tools.

Stone Tiles

How to level a subfloor

A subfloor is the surface that you will lay your natural stone tiles or wooden flooring onto. Firstly, identify what the subfloor is made of. Select a levelling compound that is suitable for application to your subfloor type – Mira X-Plan is a good all-round product, suitable for most surfaces. Ensure the subfloor is free from contamination (eg: glue, bitumen, plastic tiles etc), thoroughly clean off dust and dirt then prime with Ardex P51 primer (or Ardex P82 resin primer if wood) at a ratio of 3 parts water to 1 part primer, then allow to dry completely. Using a spirit level, find the highest point of the floor. If you are sure there are no pipes or cables below the surface, you can then tap in small masonry nails or wood pins at around 1 square metre intervals from the high spot so that the heads are at the same level as this spot. Take care not to tread or kneel on these – circle them with a coloured marker pen in order to avoid this. If you are not confident in nailing into the subfloor, use self-adhesive pads or “Sticky-Fixers” in layers.

Once complete, mix the levelling compound according to the instructions on the bag. Starting at the furthest point from the door, pour onto the floor and use a flat trowel to spread it, making sure the levelling compound just covers the top of the nails. Work back towards the door and place a batten in the doorway if needed to finish up to. Allow to dry as per manufacturers’ recommendation before laying floorcovering.

Riven Stone tiles

Riven is a finish which gives a very natural effect to the stone tile and is perfect for achieving a rustic, traditional look.

The riven finish is achieved by splitting the layers of sediment along the natural fault line. This can be done by hand splitting or machine calibration. Hand splitting will give a more natural and individual look to each piece of stone but due to the manual process thickness of the stone tile can vary slightly which will need to be accounted for when fitting to achieve a level floor finish. Please see our how to fit articles for more information on fitting techniques. Machine calibrating gives a more regimented look but the thickness of the stone tile will be uniform and therefore should make the fitting process much easier.

Riven is most commonly seen in slate tiles and exterior paving.

Brushed Stone tiles

A brushed stone tile has a smooth finish with an attractive luster, it gives a natural worn look. Brushed stone tiles can be filled or unfilled.

Brushing is a process in which wire, diamond tipped brushes sweep the stone tile. If the stone tiles are to be brushed and filled, an epoxy resin is used to fill any natural holes before the brushing takes place. Stone tiles also come brushed and unfilled in which the natural holes are left unfilled during the brushing process. These crevices can either be filled during grouting by using a slurry grouting technique or left unfilled which gives a more rustic appearance, to achieve this the stone tile would have to be pointed rather than slurry grouted. Please see our how to grout guide for more information on grouting techniques.

Brushing a popular finish for Travertine tiles and Sandstone tiles.